Sunday, August 28, 2011

Peter Reinhart's Soft Pretzels




Peter Reinhart is an acclaimed baker. He is also a prolific writer with five (5) books to boot. I have read his name across my food bloggers' websites a-plenty. And I have scoured the sea of books in every tin pan alley to acquire his cookbook to no avail. I just couldn't find his cookbooks in this side of town. My last recourse was to order his books online and so I did just that. I am now a proud owner of two of his acclaimed books, one of which is the much-revered bread baker's apprentice.

Back in the day when I was scouring his cookbooks, I would often google his recipes online and as lady luck was on my side, I would find them all there in their glory. One of those times was acquiring his bagel recipe and trying it out in my own kitchen. In my heart of hearts, I am really old school; I prefer cookbooks over online references, in the same way that I prefer books over e-book readers. And so to be able to leaf through the  pages of Peter Reinhart's cookbooks with my finger tips and smell the organic scent of paper is like standing transfixed in front of the bread guru and to bear witness to his stories leaping straight out of his cookbooks.

I am Peter Reinhart's self appointed bread apprentice.  :)

Adapted from Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day(pgs 128-131)

Ingredients
4 1/2 cups (20oz) unbleached bread flour
1 3/4 teaspoons (.4oz) salt or 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 1/2 tablespoons (.75oz) brown sugar
1 teaspoon (.11oz) instant yeast
1 1/2 cups (12oz) lukewarm water (about 95 degrees)
2 tablespoons (1oz) vegetable oil or melted butter
8 teaspoons (2oz) baking soda, for dipping
2 cups (16oz) warm water (about 100 degrees), for dipping
1 egg white, for dipping (optional)
Pretzel salt or coarse kosher salt, for garnish


Do Ahead
-Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in a mixing bowl. Whisk the yeast into the lukewarm water until dissolved, then let it sit for 1 minute to hydrate.
-Pour the yeast mixture and the oil into the dry ingredients. If using a mixer, use the paddle and mix on lowest speed for 30 to 60 seconds. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon and stir for about 1 minute. A course ball of dough should form.
-Switch to the dough hook and mix on the lowest speed, or continue mixing by hand, for 2 minutes. The dough will become slightly smoother. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.
-Continue to mix with the dough hook on medium-low speed, or mix by hand for 3 minutes, adjusting the water or flour as needed to form a smooth, firm, but slightly tacky ball of dough. If the dough is very tacky or sticky, add more flour.
-Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 1 minute to make any final adjustments. Form the dough into a ball and place it in a clean , lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and immediately refrigerate overnight or for up to 4 days. (If you plan to bake the dough in batches over different days, you can portion the dough and place it into two or more oiled bowls at this stage.)

On Baking day
-To make the dipping solution, stir the baking soda into the warm water. Whisk in the optional egg white (this will add a little shine, but it's optional)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Pour the baking soda solution into a shallow bowl or small pan. -Remove the dough from the refrigerator and immediately divide it into 2 ounce pieces, or 3 ounce pieces if you prefer larger pretzels. Roll each piece into a rope about 17 inches long, tapered at the last 3 inches of each end (if the rope shrinks back after rolling, proceed to the next piece and return a few minutes later, after the gluten has relaxed, and roll the rope again to the full length). Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or a silicone mat. If the parchment , mist it with spray oil to prevent sticking. Form a piece of dough into a pretzel shape, then place it on the sheet pan.
-As soon as the pan is filled, carefully dip each pretzel into the baking soda solution to thoroughly coat it, then put it back on the pan. Sprinkle on salt to taste, but be aware that a little goes a long way. (See the variations below for other garnish suggestions.) Dip and pan all of the pretzels./

-Bake for about 8 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for another to 10 minutes, until the pretzels are a rich brown.
-Transfer the pretzels to a wire rack and cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Variations
You can substitute whole grain flour for some of the bread flour. If you do so, add 1 tablespoon of water to the final dough for every 7 tablespoons of whole grain flour you use.
You can top these pretzels with many garnishes other than salt. Sesame seeds are very popular, or try a savory or spicy seasoning salts or a sweet streusel topping. Another option is to scatter a good melting cheese on the surface for the last 3 minutes of baking. Or, for a decadent delight, drizzle them with chocolate glaze after they come out of the oven and have cooled a bit.

Shaping Pretzels

Roll each piece of dough into a 17-inch-long rope. Holding one end of the rope with each hand, cross the strands to a make a loop (similar to crossing your hands across your chest). Lay the looped dough on the work surface so the bottom of the loop is closest to you, then cross the strands once more to create an additional twist. Rest the extra strands of the rope on the loop so a small nub of dough overhangs slightly. It should now look like a fairly tight pretzel. Carefully dip each pretzel into the baking soda solution then place on the pan.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Pierre Herme's Salted Caramel Macarons



This is the second part of Pierre Herme's famous macarons that I have been blabbing about; And while in my previous macaron blogs, I succinctly announced that I prefer baking over eating them as they are extremely sweet for my taste, and that they will never see the light of day in my kitchen, I am actually eating my own words right now, with pun intended; These particularly macarons taste like Paris! And when I say Paris, it is synonymous to all things beautiful and nice. Who would have thought that the day will finally come that I can actually say, I dont know which one I prefer more, baking or eating them. They really changed my worldview overnight. I love them now and they are definitely a keeper. Don't get me wrong, I can bake macarons on end, but what's probably stopping me at the moment is the love handle that is slowly showing its ugly head. Hehehe...

I opted for the salted caramel flavour hoping to pull back to earth the romantic notion over salted caramel flavoured macarons - they frequent in novels and magazines I have had the chance to read in the past.  Truth be told, salted caramel deserves that special place often associated with romance. And if these novels and magazines were to describe the taste as seemingly being in heaven, then I say, "I couldn't agree more".  

Also,  since my brother in-law, Andrew invited us for an intimate family gathering for his birthday over the weekend, I might as well bring in special treats for him and our family. And as Andrew loves anything French, nothing can be more fitting than these macarons for his birthday celebration. 'Bon appétit'

*Adapted by http://theboywhobakes.co.uk/2009/08/pierre-hermes-salted-caramel-macarons/

Macaron Recipe

300g Icing Sugar

300g Ground Almonds

110g Liquified Egg Whites (separated and left on the counter for at least 48hrs)

15g Coffee Extract

15g “Egg Yolk” Food Colouring

300g Sugar

75g Water

110g Liquified Egg Whites

Salted Caramel Cream

200g Sugar

330g Whipping Cream
30g  Salted Butter + 140g Softened Salted Butter


Make the Macarons:

1. Sift the Ground Almonds and Icing sugar together (supermarket bought ground almonds are not fine enough so I always grind the mixture, called tant pour tant, further in a food processor and then sift this)

2. Mix the first portion of egg whites with the food colouring and coffe extract, add this to the almond/sugar mixture but dont mix.

3. Put the water and sugar in a saucepan and heat until it reaches 118C. Take off the heat and let cool till 115C. At the same time add the second batch of egg whites to the mixer and beat to soft peaks. Keep the mixer running and when the syrup cools to 115C slowly pour it down the side of the mixer and keep mixing until the meringue cools to 50C.

4. Fold in the egg whites in 3 additions and mix gently until it flows like magma (this wording is not from the book but is commonly listed as advice but has always been confusing to me as I dont really know what magma flows like) This time I used the description that the mixture should fall from your spatula in smooth ribbon and should disappear into the batter in about 10 seconds).

5. Add the mixture to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip and pipe into rounds about 3.5cm in diameter on a parchment/silpat lined baking sheet. Let the pipped shells sit out for 30 minutes to enable them to develop a skin before baking.

6. Preheat the oven to 180C before baking for 12 minutes opening the oven door quickly twice.  (not too sure why this is but I did it anyway). Once taken out of the oven slide the parchment/silpat onto a wire rack to cool.

Make the Caramel:

1. Add about 50g of sugar to a saucepan, let this melt then add another 50g sugar and let this melt. Continue three times until all 200g of sugar has been incorporated and melted (can anyone tell me why its done in this way I have never heard of making caramel this way).

2. Let the syrup caramelise until it has turned a very dark amber. Remove from the heat and add the 30g butter. Add the cream which will spatter and bubble and may seize up and harden but will melt in the next stage.

3. Put the pan back on the heat and cook until it reaches 108C on a candy thermometer. Pour into a dish and cover with plastic wrap to avoid it developing a skin. Let this cool, I left it about 10 minutes which was not enough as it melted the butter in the next stage so let it cool until it wouldn’t melt butter.

4. Beat the remaining butter for 8 to 10 minutes and then incorporate the caramel in 2 additions. Add this to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip and pipe into half of the shells and then sandwich another shell on top. Store the Macarons in the refrigerator for 24hrs and then remove 2hrs before serving.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Pierre Herme's Mint Chocolate Macarons




I have been dreaming of macarons of late. It could have been evoked by the vivid and powerful imagery of Pierre Herme's lustful, sexy and decadent macarons.  Going to Paris now just to purchase Herme's macarons would probably cost us an arm and a leg. The need to satisfy the palate is palpable. And I was quite determined to quench THE need. With conscious effort and sheer determination, I researched through the power of internet in order to find the best macarons in town. I have been meaning to buy the cookbook of Piere Herme online but I was delaying it a bit as I have just purchased the cookbooks of Peter Reinhart, whose creations - I have tried and tested -  are a subject of another blog entry in a day or two. And as luck would have it, I found some recipes of the famous macarons of the equally famous Pierre Herme.   I gave them a try and oh my, I was transported to the city of light even for a few seconds as I bite into the sweet, gentle, delicious meringue sandwich and the decadent, smooth dark chocolate with a hint of peppermint white chocolate in between...Je suis en amour!

* Lifted from the pages of http://theboywhobakes.co.uk/

Ingredients:
300g Ground Almonds
300g Icing Sugar
110g Egg Whites, aged
5g (or depending how you like your macaron's colouring be) Green Food Colouring
300g Granulated Sugar
75g Water
110 Egg Whites, aged


1. Mix the ground almonds and icing sugar together. Sieve into a large bowl. Mix the colouring into the first portion of egg whites and pour this onto the sugar/almond mixture but don’t mix in.

2. Pour the water and sugar into a saucepan and swirl together. Add the second portion of egg whites to a mixer fitted with the whisk. Cook the syrup to 118C. Once the mixture reaches 115C start the mixer on high. Once the syrup reaches 118C take straight of the heat and pour in a thin stream down the side of the mixer bowl continuing to whisk on high.

3. Continue to whisk the meringue on high until the side of the bowl is no longer hot. You still want it a little warm, around 50C. Add all of the meringue to the bowl with the almond sugar mixture.

4. Using a large spatula fold the mixture together until it starts to shine and forms a ribbon that stays visible for about 30 seconds.

5. Add the mixture to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip and pipe into alternating lines onto parchment lined baking sheets. Set aside for about 30 minutes or until the macarons have formed a skin that doesn’t stick to your finger.

6. Whilst the macarons are drying preheat your oven to 140C. Once ready bake the macarons for around 13 mintues. Remove the baking trays and immediately slide off the macarons and the parchment onto the work surface and let cool completely before removing the shells.

Whipped White Chocolate and Mint Ganache:

adapted from About.com

8 Ounces / 226g white chocolate

1/2 Cup / 120ml heavy cream

1 tsp peppermint extract

1. Place the chopped up chocolate into a medium bowl, set aside. Bring the cream just to a boil then pour over the chocolate. Stirring from the centre outwards mix until you have a smooth ganache. It will be much thinner than usual but thats how you want it.

2. Chill the ganache in the fridge until chilled then whisk until thickened and is in a pipeable consistency.


Bittersweet Chocolate Ganache:

Pierre Herme – Chocolate Desserts

8 ounces / 230g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 cup / 250g heavy cream

4 tblsp / 60g unsalted butter, room temperature

1. Place the chocolate in a medium bowl, set aside. Bring the cram to a full boil in a heavy bottomed saucepan. Whilst the cream is coming to a boil beat the butter with a rubber spatula untilvery soft and creamy, set aside.

2. Once the cream reaches a boil take off the heat and gently stir into the chocolate using a spatula. Continue to stir, gently so as not to incorporate any air, until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Let the ganache cool for a minute or two.

3. Add half the butter and stir with a spatula until smooth, repeat with the rest of the butter. Once fully incorporated the ganache will be smooth and glossy. Let the ganache cool on the counter until thickened and pipeable.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread





I have a love affair with cinnamon..The spicy and middle eastern smell wafting around the house is one of the best aromas one would like to be greeted upon.  It is one smell that always brings a gentle smile on my face and  nips a tiny opening of the place where I locked  away my youthful dream of becoming a baker/patisserie owner. It is really a dream that even I don't care to admit. And so today is an opportune time to heed that gentle hush of a voice that dreams are made of a whiff of cinnamon, and saccharine longings of flour, egg and milk. (music please  ♫these dreams go on when I close my eyes, every second of the night I lived another life).  Hehehe.

If you checked my repertoire of recipes, you will know how much I love baking cinnamon buns or breads - in different sizes and shapes - to bits.  If this were not enough proof of my love affair with cinnamon, then I don't know what is...

Lifted from the pages of The Bread Baker's Apprentice cookbook by Peter Reinhart

Make two 1/2-pound leaves

3 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 large egg, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons butter, melted or at room temperature
1/2 cup buttermilk or whole milk, at room temperature
3/4 cup water, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups raisins, rinsed and drained
1 cup chopped walnuts

1. Stir together the flour, sugar, salt, yeast and cinnamon in a mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Add the egg, shortening, buttermilk, and water. Stir together with a large spoon (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) until the ingredients come together and form a ball. Adjust with flour or water if the dough seems too sticky or too dry and stiff.

2. Sprinkle flour on a counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mixing on medium speed, switching to the dough hook). The dough should be soft and pliable, tacky but not sticky. Add flour as you knead (or mix), if necessary, to achieve this texture. Knead by hand approximately 10 minutes (or by machine for 6 to 8 minutes). Sprinkle in the raisins and walnuts during the final 2 minutes of kneading (or mixing) to distribute them evenly and to avoid crushing them too much. (If you are mixing by machine, you may have to finish kneading by hand to distribute the raisins and walnuts evenly).  Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

3. Ferment at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

4. Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces and form them into loaves. Place each loaf in a lightly oiled 8 1/2 by 1/2-inch pan, mist the tops with spray oil, and cover loosely with plastic wrap.

5. Proof at room temperature for 60 to 90 minutes, or until the dough crests above the lips of the pans and is nearly doubled in size.

6. Preheat the oven to 350F with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Place the loaf pans on a sheet pan, making sure they are not touching each other.

7. Bake the loaves for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees for even baking and continue baking for another 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the oven. The finished bread should register 190F in the center and be golden brown on top and lightly golden on the sides and bottom. They should make a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom.

8. Immediately remove the breads from their pans and cool on a rack at least hour, preferably 2 hours, before slicing or serving.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Peanut Butter Filled Chocolate Cupcakes With Chocolate Ganache





I don't normally bake cupcakes for the simply reason that they can be quite "sinful", especially my kind of cupcake. I don't bake them plain. My kind of cupcake needs to have a filling. And loads of chocolate bars...It can really be rich you know. And to remain true to this, here is yet another example; with filling of peanut butter goodness ensconced by delectable chocolate and topped with frosty chocolate treat. What else can you ask for?

*Snagged from my favourite cupcake blog: http://cupcakeblog.com/

Chocolate Cupcakes
24 regular cupcakes / 350 degree oven

5.4 ounces dark chocolate or 3/4 of a 200 gram bar of Valrhona 61% cocao
22 tablespoons butter (yes, nearly three sticks of butter!)
1-3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar
6 eggs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
4-1/2 tablespoons cocoa powder, unsweetened
1-1/2 teaspoon baking powder
pinch of salt

1. Melt chocolate and butter over a water bath.
2. Add sugar and stir, let mixture cool for 10 minutes.
3. Beat in an electric mixer for 3 minutes.
4. Add one egg at a time, mixing for 30 seconds between each
5. Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and a pinch of salt into the mixture and mix until blended.
6. Scoop into cupcake cups and bake at 350 F for 25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.


Peanut Butter Filling

4 ounces or 1/2 package of Philly cream cheese
1 cup creamy peanut butter
2 cups sifted powdered sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2-3 tablespoons milk

1. Beat cream cheese and peanut butter until combined.
2. Add powdered sugar and vanilla and beat until combined.
3. Add the milk and beat until combined.


Chocolate Ganache

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate
5 ounces semisweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon butter, room temperature
2 cups powdered sugar

1. Chop chocolates and transfer into a heat proof bowl.
2. Heat cream until bubbles form around the edge of the pan, pour cream over the chocolate.
3. Let sit for 1 minute then stir until combined.
4. Add butter and vanilla and stir until combined.
5. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixture and let cool for 10 minutes.
6. Sift powdered sugar into the mixture and beat until combined.
7. Continue to beat with an electric mixer until lighter in color and creamy.


mid-assembly

Assemble
1. Using a small pairing knife, cut off the top of the cupcake in the shape of a cone. Flip the top over and cut off the cone.
2. Fill the cavity with a teaspoon or so of peanut butter filling.
3. Replace top.
4. Frost with ganache.
5. Decorate as you wish.


Home-made "Over the top" David's Pizza alla Arby's





I have perfected baking this type of pizza to a T. While my little boy came up with the toppings idea during our first pizza night, I have refined well and truly the recipe. In fact I could no longer remember how countless times I made this pizza for my little boy.

I have over-emphasized the importance of Less is more in making your own pizza. Do not overload your pizza with toppings. Let me say that again, don't overload lest your pizza gets too soggy and lest the Neo-Napolitans turn in their grave. A true pizza is simple. and it is the simple truth.

Making my own pizza in fact has a significant and deeply seated meaning in my baking life as well. I baked because in my mind I am continuing the legacy of the "greatest cook known to man", whom I simply call "my dearest Mommy". 

Mommy has whipped up the most complexed menu one could ever imagine, Mommy in her glory and all, simply liked pizza. It was her favourite food in the whole wide world. 

For someone - whose magic wand in the kitchen can whip up the most complexed or creative dish ever known - to favor pizza as her favourite food is simply beyond me and hard to fathom in epicurean world. :)



Ingredients:

1 dough recipe 
Click here for the dough recipe and other instructions

Tomato-based:
3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 can whole tomatoes
1 small can of tomato paste (pizza flavour)
2 teaspoons of dried oregano
a good dash of salt

Toppings:
8 pieces of salami
6 pieces pepperoni
4 small anchovies in oil
4 slices of marinated artichoke
50 grams (or less) chopped black olives
100 grams mushroom
2 handful of grated mozzarella
1/3 cup of grated parmesan and strong cheddar combined

Preheat your oven to 220 degrees C (200 C for fan-forced oven)

Tomato based sauce:
Heat up pot with olive oil, when oil is already hot, stir in all ingredients in medium-low heat. Continue cooking for 30 minutes while stirring it every now and then to avoid tomato sticking on the pan. Let cool.

Toppings:
Spread tomato sauce. Dont put too much.
Arrange Salami, pepperoni, anchovies, black olives and mushrooms on top of dough
Sprinkle with a handful of mozzarella and 1/3 cup of other cheeses

Bake for 15 minutes then remove pizza from oven to sprinkle another handful of mozzarella on top. Bake for another 5 minutes.


Saturday, July 30, 2011

Devil's Food White-out Cake




I intentionally didnt' include the recipe of Doris Greenspan's Devil's Food White-out cake on my "A Celebration" blogspot for the simply reason that the recipe is quite lengthy - as I am a tad lazy to toil over from one computer key to the another.  But the power of internet is far and wide these days - with a little bit of common sense - I was able to research and extract the entire recipe from the internet. Thus, cut and paste made my day. But a disclaimer I will issue; while the recipe was cut and paste and lifted from Dorie Greenspan's cookbook, the pictures and the act of baking are originally mine, and mine alone. :)

Nothing can be more fitting than to celebrate a momentous event in your life than to bake this fudgy, gooey and marshmallowy chocolate cake. This is such a celebration.

And while the recipe may be daunting at first glance, the recipe takes you through every minute detail of baking galore.

This cake will never fail to amaze you. And trust me, I have found the cake for my family dinner on Christmas eve this year. 


Source: Dorie Greenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours p. 247-9 
Makes 12 servings 

For the cake 
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour 
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 
3/4 tsp baking soda 
1/2 tsp baking powder 
1/4 tsp salt 
1 1/4 sticks (10 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature 
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar 
1/2 cup sugar 
3 large eggs, at room temperature 
1 tsp pure vanilla extract 
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled 
1/2 cup buttermilk or whole milk, at room temperature 
1/2 cup boiling water 
4 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate, finely chopped, or 2/3 cup store-bought mini chocolate chips 

For the filling and frosting 
1/2 cup egg whites (about 4 large) 
1 cup sugar 
3/4 tsp cream of tartar 
1 cup water 
1 Tbsp pure vanilla extract 

GETTING READY: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two 8-x-2-inch round cake pans, dust the insides with flour, tap out the excess and line the bottoms with parchment or wax paper. Put the pans on a baking sheet. 

TO MAKE THE CAKE: Sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt. 

Working with a stand mixer, preferably fitted with a paddle attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the butter on medium speed until soft and creamy. Add the sugars and continue to beat for another 3 minutes. Add the eggs one by one, beating for 1 minute after each addition. Beat in the vanilla; don't be concerned if the mixture looks curdled. Reduce the mixer speed to low and mix in the melted chocolate. When it is fully incorporated, add the dry ingredients alternately with the buttermilk, adding the dry ingredients in 3 additions and the milk in 2 (begin and end with the dry ingredients); scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed and mix only until the ingredients disappear into the batter. At this point, the batter will be thick, like frosting. Still working on low speed, mix in the boiling water, which will thin the batter considerably. Switch to a rubber spatula, scrape down the bowl and stir in the chopped chocolate. Divide the batter evenly between the two pans and smooth the tops with the rubber spatula. 

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pans at the midway point. When fully baked, the cakes will be springy to the touch and a thin knife inserted into the centers will come out clean. Don't worry if the tops have a few small cracks. Transfer the cake pans to a rack and cool for about 5 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the cakes, unmold them and peel off the paper liners. Invert and cool to room temperature right side up. (The cooled cake layers can be wrapped airtight and stored at room temperature overnight or frozen for up to 2 months.) 

When you are ready to fill and frost the cake, inspect the layers. If the cakes have crowned, use a long serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion to even them. With the same knife, slice each layer horizontally in half. Set 3 layers aside and crumble the fourth layer; set the crumbs aside. 

TO MAKE THE FILLING AND FROSTING: Put the egg whites in a clean, dry mixer bowl or in another large bowl. Have a candy thermometer at hand. 

Put the sugar, cream of tartar and water in a small saucepan and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, cover the pan and boil for 3 minutes. Uncover and allow the syrup to boil until it reaches 242 degrees F on the candy thermometer. While the syrup is cooking, start beating the egg whites. 

When the syrup is at about 235 degrees F, begin beating the egg whites on medium speed with the whisk attachment or with a hand mixer. If the whites form firm, shiny peaks before the syrup reaches temperature, reduce the mixer speed to low and keep mixing the whites until the syrup catches up. With the mixer at medium speed, and standing back slightly, carefully pour in the hot syrup, pouring it between the beater(s) and the side of the bowl. Splatters are inevitable—don't try to scrape them into the whites, just carry on. Add the vanilla extract and keep beating the whites at medium speed until they reach room temperature, about 5 minutes. You should have a smooth, shiny, marshmallowy frosting. Although you could keep it in the fridge in a pinch, it's really better to use it right now. 

TO ASSEMBLE THE CAKE: Put a bottom layer cut side up on a cardboard cake round or on a cake plate protected by strips of wax or parchment paper. Using a long metal icing spatula, cover the layer generously with frosting. Top with a second layer, cut side up, and frost it. Finish with the third layer, cut side down, and frost the sides and top of the cake. Don't worry about smoothing the frosting—it should be swirly. Now, cover the entire cake with the chocolate cake crumbs, gently pressing the crumbs into the filling with your fingers. 

Refrigerate the cake for about 1 hour before serving. (If it's more convenient, you can chill the cake for 8 hours or more; cover it loosely and keep it away from foods with strong odors.) 

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